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Plumbing · Beginner

How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet

A 60–90 minute swap done properly: shutoffs, the basin wrench problem, supply lines and leak testing.

Written and checked in-house by the BuildMate Editorial Team Transparent formulas Updated August 2026 7 min read Formula published on page
Tools needed
  • Basin wrench
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Channel-lock pliers
  • Bucket and towels
  • Headlamp
  • Utility knife
  • Plumber's putty knife
Materials
  • New faucet
  • Braided stainless supply lines
  • Plumber's putty or silicone
  • Thread seal tape
  • Optional: new angle stops

Step-by-step

  1. 1

    Shut off and verify

    Close both angle stops under the sink, then open the faucet to relieve pressure and confirm the water is actually off. If a stop will not close or weeps, replace it while you are under there — an old multi-turn stop that fails at 2 a.m. is a much worse day.

  2. 2

    Clear the cabinet and light it

    Empty the cabinet, lay towels, put a bucket under the connections, and set a headlamp or work light. Almost every faucet job goes badly because the installer could not see.

  3. 3

    Disconnect supply lines

    Loosen the supply nuts at the faucet shanks with an adjustable wrench, expecting a cup of trapped water. Disconnect the sprayer hose and any dishwasher air-gap line at the faucet body.

  4. 4

    Break the mounting nuts loose

    This is the hard part. Mounting nuts sit 8–14 inches back in the dark, which is what a basin wrench exists for. If the nuts are corroded solid, penetrating oil and 15 minutes of patience beats forcing them and cracking the sink.

  5. 5

    Clean the deck

    Lift the old faucet out and scrape off old putty, silicone and mineral crust with a plastic putty knife. Clean bare metal or stone completely — new gaskets do not seal over old residue.

  6. 6

    Set the new faucet

    Follow the manufacturer's gasket instructions; most modern faucets use a rubber or foam gasket and need no putty. Where putty is specified, roll a rope and set the base into it. Tighten mounting hardware while keeping the spout square to the sink edge.

  7. 7

    Connect supplies and the sprayer

    Use new braided stainless supply lines — the old ones are the same age as the faucet you just removed. Hand-tighten, then a quarter to half turn with a wrench. Do not over-tighten; these seal on a rubber washer or cone, not on force.

  8. 8

    Pressurize and test

    Remove the aerator, open both stops slowly, and run hot and cold for a minute to flush debris before reinstalling it. Dry every joint with a paper towel and check again after 10 minutes, then once more the next morning.

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Safety note: this guide is educational. Always follow local building codes, pull required permits, and hire a licensed pro for structural, electrical, gas or plumbing work when in doubt.