Plumbing · Beginner
How to Replace a Kitchen Faucet
A 60–90 minute swap done properly: shutoffs, the basin wrench problem, supply lines and leak testing.
- • Basin wrench
- • Adjustable wrench
- • Channel-lock pliers
- • Bucket and towels
- • Headlamp
- • Utility knife
- • Plumber's putty knife
- • New faucet
- • Braided stainless supply lines
- • Plumber's putty or silicone
- • Thread seal tape
- • Optional: new angle stops
Step-by-step
- 1
Shut off and verify
Close both angle stops under the sink, then open the faucet to relieve pressure and confirm the water is actually off. If a stop will not close or weeps, replace it while you are under there — an old multi-turn stop that fails at 2 a.m. is a much worse day.
- 2
Clear the cabinet and light it
Empty the cabinet, lay towels, put a bucket under the connections, and set a headlamp or work light. Almost every faucet job goes badly because the installer could not see.
- 3
Disconnect supply lines
Loosen the supply nuts at the faucet shanks with an adjustable wrench, expecting a cup of trapped water. Disconnect the sprayer hose and any dishwasher air-gap line at the faucet body.
- 4
Break the mounting nuts loose
This is the hard part. Mounting nuts sit 8–14 inches back in the dark, which is what a basin wrench exists for. If the nuts are corroded solid, penetrating oil and 15 minutes of patience beats forcing them and cracking the sink.
- 5
Clean the deck
Lift the old faucet out and scrape off old putty, silicone and mineral crust with a plastic putty knife. Clean bare metal or stone completely — new gaskets do not seal over old residue.
- 6
Set the new faucet
Follow the manufacturer's gasket instructions; most modern faucets use a rubber or foam gasket and need no putty. Where putty is specified, roll a rope and set the base into it. Tighten mounting hardware while keeping the spout square to the sink edge.
- 7
Connect supplies and the sprayer
Use new braided stainless supply lines — the old ones are the same age as the faucet you just removed. Hand-tighten, then a quarter to half turn with a wrench. Do not over-tighten; these seal on a rubber washer or cone, not on force.
- 8
Pressurize and test
Remove the aerator, open both stops slowly, and run hot and cold for a minute to flush debris before reinstalling it. Dry every joint with a paper towel and check again after 10 minutes, then once more the next morning.
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Safety note: this guide is educational. Always follow local building codes, pull required permits, and hire a licensed pro for structural, electrical, gas or plumbing work when in doubt.
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