Flooring · Beginner
How to Install Laminate Flooring
Underlayment, layout, cuts, expansion gaps and trim — click-lock in one weekend.
- • Miter saw or jamb saw
- • Tapping block
- • Pull bar
- • Rubber mallet
- • Spacers
- • Tape measure
- • Utility knife
- • Click-lock laminate planks (+10% for waste)
- • Foam underlayment with vapor barrier
- • Transition strips
- • Quarter round or shoe molding
- 1
Acclimate the flooring
Stack unopened boxes flat in the room for 48–72 hours so the planks adjust to humidity. Skipping this causes buckling later.
- 2
Prep the subfloor
Vacuum thoroughly. The subfloor must be within 3/16" of flat over 10 ft. Sand high spots on plywood; fill low spots with leveler on concrete.
- 3
Roll out underlayment
Butt seams — don't overlap. Tape seams with the manufacturer's tape. On concrete, use underlayment with a built-in vapor barrier.
- 4
Plan the layout
Measure the room and calculate how wide the last row will be. If it's less than 2", rip the first row narrower so both edges look balanced. Run planks parallel to the longest wall or toward the main light source.
- 5
Install the first three rows
Leave a 3/8" expansion gap on all sides using spacers. Click the long edge first, then tap the short end tight with a tapping block. Stagger end joints at least 12" between rows.
- 6
Cut around obstacles
For door jambs, undercut them with a jamb saw and slide the plank underneath — never trim the plank to fit around them. It looks amateur.
- 7
Finish the last row and trim
Rip the last row to width leaving the 3/8" gap. Pull the last plank tight with a pull bar. Install quarter round nailed to the baseboard (never to the floor) to hide the gap.
Safety note: this guide is educational. Always follow local building codes, pull required permits, and hire a licensed pro for structural, electrical, gas or plumbing work when in doubt.
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